Eat like a local: five things to try during your layover in Reykjavík

When your ship docks in Reykjavík, your instinct might push you to seek out the first international pub to play it safe. But today, the Icelandic capital is an incredible gastronomic laboratory, where the purest ingredients combine with Viking traditions. If you want to avoid the tourist menus in the city center and discover what the inhabitants of the world’s northernmost capital truly eat, here are five must-try tastes during your stopover.

Skyr: More than just yogurt

Everyone thinks it’s yogurt, but technically Skyr is a soft, fat-free, protein-rich fresh cow’s cheese. It has been part of Icelandic culture since the Viking colonization era. It has an incredibly dense and velvety consistency and a slightly tart flavor. In Reykjavík’s cafes, try it the traditional way: served cold with a drizzle of liquid cream, sugar, and wild blueberries.

Kjötsúpa: The warmth of geysers in a soup

If the day is windy or cool (which is far from rare in Iceland), Kjötsúpa is every sailor’s salvation. It is the traditional Icelandic meat soup, prepared with the best cuts of local lamb (famous worldwide because the animals graze freely, eating grass and aromatic herbs), potatoes, turnips, carrots, and rice or oats. It is thick, invigorating, and smells of home.

Plokkfiskur: The Ocean’s comfort food

Historically conceived as a dish to use up leftovers, Plokkfiskur (literally ‘shredded fish’) is today one of the most beloved specialties in restaurants around the old harbor area. It is a creamy stew made from very fresh white fish (usually cod or haddock) boiled, shredded, and then blended with mashed potatoes, onions, and a rich béchamel sauce. It is often served baked au gratin with a layer of cheese.

Rúgbrauð: The bread baked underground

This dark, dense, slightly sweet rye bread has a unique characteristic worldwide: its cooking method. Traditionally, the dough is sealed in cast-iron pots and buried near hot springs, where it bakes slowly thanks to the underground geothermal heat for about 24 hours. It has no crust, almost resembles a cake, and is perfect spread with generous salted Icelandic butter or served with fish.

Pylsa: The unsuspected national street food

Yes, Reykjavík’s most popular dish is a hot dog, but forget the American version. The Icelandic Pylsa is mainly made from lamb (in addition to pork and beef) and its casing is natural. It must be strictly ordered “eina með öllu” (with everything): it’s served in a warm bun with raw onions, crispy fried onions, ketchup, sweet brown mustard, and especially remolaði, a sauce made from mayonnaise and capers. Even Bill Clinton queued up at the famous Bæjarins Beztu Pylsur stand near the harbor to try it!

Bring a piece of Iceland home: The Plokkfiskur Recipe (for 4 people)

Among all the specialties, Plokkfiskur is the simplest, creamiest, and most comforting fish dish to replicate at home to beat the northern blues.

Ingredients

• 600g fresh cod fillets (or haddock)
• 600g yellow-fleshed potatoes
• 1 large yellow onion
• 50g butter
• 3 tablespoons all-purpose flour
• 350ml whole milk
• Salt, white pepper, and a pinch of fresh chives to taste
• Rye bread (to serve with)

Method

Peel the potatoes, cut them into cubes, and boil them in salted water until tender. Drain them and mash them coarsely with a fork (it shouldn’t become a smooth purée, chunks should remain). In another pot, blanch the cod fillets in lightly salted water for about 5-7 minutes. Drain the fish, remove any remaining bones, and shred it into pieces with your hands. In a large saucepan, melt the butter and sauté the finely chopped onion until translucent. Add the flour and stir quickly for a minute to create a roux. Pour in the milk gradually, continuing to whisk to avoid lumps, letting the sauce thicken over low heat for a few minutes. Season with salt and white pepper. Add the mashed potatoes and shredded fish to the sauce. Stir gently over very low heat for a couple of minutes until the mixture becomes homogeneous, thick, and creamy. Turn off the heat, plate, and garnish with plenty of fresh chopped chives. Serve it very hot accompanied by slices of buttered rye bread.